Bagnara JT, Fernandez PJ, Fujii R (2007) On the blue coloration of vertebrates. Pigment Cell Res 20:14–26. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0749.2006.00360.x
Baird W (1858) Cyclopaedia of the natural sciences. University of Glasgow, London, Glasgow
Bálint Z, Kertész K, Piszter G, Vértesy Z, Biró LP (2012) The well-tuned blues: the role of structural colours as optical signals in the species recognition of a local butterfly fauna (Lepidoptera: Lycaenidae: Polyommatinae). J R Soc Interface 9:1745–1756. https://doi.org/10.1098/rsif.2011.0854
Berdan FE (2006) Circulation of feathers in Mesoamerica. Nuevo Mundo Mundos Nuevos. https://doi.org/10.4000/nuevomundo.1387
Berthier S, Boulenguez J, Menu M, Mottin B (2008) Butterfly inclusions in Van Schrieck masterpieces. Techniques and optical properties. Appl Phys A Mater Sci Process 92:51–57. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00339-008-4480-8
Conklin HC (1955) Hanunóo color categories. Southwest J Anthropol 11:339–344. https://doi.org/10.1086/soutjanth.11.4.3628909
Cowan F (1865) Curious facts in the history of insects; including spiders and scorpions. Lippincott & Co., Philadelphia
Crill R (1999) Indian embroidery. Prakash Book Depot, New Delhi
Curran CH (1945) Insects of the Pacific world. MacMillan Company, New York
Cuthill IC, Allen WL, Arbuckle K, Caspers B, Chaplin G, Hauber ME, Hill GE, Jablonski NG, Jiggins CD, Kelber A, Mappes J, Marshall J, Merrill R, Osorio D, Prum R, Roberts NW, Roulin A, Rowland HM, Sherratt TN, Skelhorn J, Speed MP, Stevens M, Stoddard MC, Stuart-Fox D, Talas L, Tibbetts E, Caro T (2017) The biology of color. Science 357:eaan0221. https://doi.org/10.1126/science.aan0221
D’Alba L, Kieffer L, Shawkey MD (2012) Relative contributions of pigments and biophotonic nanostructures to natural color production: a case study in budgerigar (Melopsittacus undulatus) feathers. J Exp Biol 215:1272–1277. https://doi.org/10.1242/jeb.064907
Denton EJ, Land MF (1971) Mechanism of reflexion in silvery layers of fish and cephalopods. Proc R Soc London Ser B Biol Sci 178:43–61. https://doi.org/10.1098/rspb.1971.0051
Diamond AW (1986) A global view of cultural and economic uses of birds. In: Diamond AW, Filion FL (Eds.) The value of birds. International Council for Bird Preservation (Technical Publication 6), Cambridge, pp. 99–109
Durrer H (1986) The skin of birds: colouration. In: Bereiter-Hahn J, Matoltsky AG, Richards KS (Eds.) Biology of the Integument: 2 Vertebrates. Springer-Verlag, Berlin pp. 239–247
Elkin AP (1930) The rainbow‐serpent myth in North‐West Australia. Oceania 1:349–352. https://doi.org/10.1002/j.1834-4461.1930.tb01655.x
Fenollosa EF (2007) Epochs of Chinese and Japanese art: an outline history of East Asiatic design. Stone Bridge Press, Berkeley
Fujii R (1993) Cytophysiology of Fish chromatophores. Int Rev Cytol 143:191–216. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0074-7696(08)61876-8
Galusha JW, Richey LR, Gardner JS, Cha JN, Bartl MH (2008) Discovery of a diamond-based photonic crystal structure in beetle scales. Phys Rev E-Stat Nonlinear Soft Matter Phys 77:050 904. https://doi.org/10.1103/PhysRevE.77.050904
Garner HM (1979) Chinese lacquer, the arts. Faber and Faber, London
Gelineau EP (1981) A psychometric approach to the measurement of color preference. Percept Mot Skills 53:163–174. https://doi.org/10.2466/pms.1981.53.1.163
Gu A, Wang N, Kong YJ, Hou JY, Li G, Lei Y (2021) Analytical investigation of the feather decoration technique of a seventeenth to eighteenth century Chinese imperial hanging screen. Herit Sci 9:82. https://doi.org/10.1186/s40494-021-00555-8
Hanboonsong Y (2010) Edible insects and associated food habits in Thailand. In: Durst PB, Johnson DV, Leslie RN, Shono K (Eds.) Forest insects as food: humans bite back. Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, Bangkok, pp. 173–182
Hansell M (2009) Built by animals: the natural history of animal architecture. Oxford University, Oxford
Healey C (1990) Maring hunters and traders: production and exchange in the Papua New Guinea Highlands. University of California Press, Berkeley
Henshilwood CS, D’errico F, Marean CW, Milo RG, Yates R (2001) An early bone tool industry from the Middle Stone Age at Blombos Cave, South Africa: implications for the origins of modern human behaviour, symbolism and language. J Hum Evol 41:631–678. https://doi.org/10.1006/jhev.2001.0515
Hermessen JL (1917) A journey on the Rio Zamora, Ecuador. Geogr Rev 4:434–449. https://doi.org/10.2307/207394
de Herrera y Tordesillas A (1615) Historia general de los hechos de los Castellanos en las islas i tierra firme del mar oceano. Madrid: En la Impr. Real
Herring PJ (1994) Reflective systems in aquatic animals. Comp Biochem Physiol—Part A Physiol 109:513–546. https://doi.org/10.1016/0300-9629(94)90192-9
Hill GE (2006) Female mate choice for ornamental coloration. In: Hill GE, McGraw KJ (Eds.) Bird coloration: function and evolution. Harvard University Press, Cambride, MA, pp. 137–200
Hinton EM (1962) The dress of the Pwo Karen of North Thailand. J Siam Soc 74:27–35
Hodson TC (1911) The Naga tribes of Manipur. MacMillan Company, London
Holt AL, Sweeney AM, Johnsen S, Morse DE (2011) A highly distributed Bragg stack with unique geometry provides effective camouflage for Loliginid squid eyes. J R Soc Interface 8:1386–1399. https://doi.org/10.1098/rsif.2010.0702
Igic B, D’Alba L, Shawkey MD (2016) Manakins can produce iridescent and bright feather colours without melanosomes. J Exp Biol 219:1851–1859. https://doi.org/10.1242/jeb.137182
Jackson B (2001) Kingfisher Blue: treasures of an ancient Chinese art. Ten Speed Press, Berkeley
Jackson DJ, McDougall C, Woodcroft B, Moase P, Rose RA, Kube M, Reinhardt R, Rokhsar DS, Montagnani C, Joubert C, Piquemal D, Degnan BM (2010) Parallel evolution of Nacre Building Gene Sets in Molluscs. Mol Biol Evol 27:591–608. https://doi.org/10.1093/molbev/msp278
Jaffer A (2004) Luxury goods from India: the art of the Indian cabinet-maker. Victoria & Albert Museum, London
Jain R (2016) Textiles & garments at the Jaipur Court. Niyogi Books, New Delhi
Jordan D (2012) Local house was covered with fish scales. staugustine.com | St. Augustine Rec
Jordan TM, Partridge JC, Roberts NW (2012) Non-polarizing broadband multilayer reflectors in fish. Nat Photonics 6:759–763. https://doi.org/10.1038/nphoton.2012.260
Karsten R(1923) Blood revenge: war and victory feasts among the Jivaro Indians of Eastern Ecuador Smithson. Bur. Ethnol. 79:94
Keimer L (1938) Insects de l’Egypte ancienne. Service de. ed. Le Caire, Cairo, Egypt
Kidder DP, Fletcher JC (1866) Brazil and the Brazilians portrayed in historical and descriptive sketches. Sampson Low, Son, and Marston, London
Kilchoer C, Steiner U, Wilts BD (2019) Thin-film structural coloration from simple fused scales in moths. Interface Focus 9:20180044. https://doi.org/10.1098/rsfs.2018.0044
Kim CW (1978) Distribution atlas of insects of Korea. Series 2 Coleoptera. Korea University Press, Seoul
Kjernsmo K, Whitney HM, Scott-Samuel NE, Hall JR, Knowles H, Talas L, Cuthill IC (2020) Iridescence as camouflage. Curr Biol 30:551–555. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cub.2019.12.013
Koch E (2006) The Taj Mahal. Thames & Hudson Ltd, London
Kockelkoren G, DeBlock H, Damen E, Van Bos M (2020) The feathered headdress from the Austral Islands at The Royal Museums of Art and History, Brussels. The conservation of a masterpiece. Conserv. Expo. Restaur. d’Objets d’Art 12, ceroart.8165
Kolnegari M, Naserifard M, Hazrati M (2020) Discovery of Buprestidae rock art in central Iran suggests historical relationship between jewel beetles and mankind. Entomol Sci 23:193–195. https://doi.org/10.1111/ens.12412
Kritsky G (1991) Beetle gods of ancient Egypt. Am Entomol 37:85–89. https://doi.org/10.1093/ae/37.2.85
Levy-Lior A, Pokroy B, Levavi-Sivan B, Leiserowitz L, Werner S, Addadi L (2008) Biogenic guanine crystals from the skin of fish may be designed to enhance light reflectance. Cryst Growth Des 8:507–511. https://doi.org/10.1021/cg0704753
Levy-Lior A, Shimoni E, Schwartz O, Gavish-Regev E, Oron D, Oxford G, Weiner S, Addadi L (2010) Guanine-based biogenic photonic-crystal arrays in fish and spiders. Adv Funct Mater 20:320–329. https://doi.org/10.1002/adfm.200901437
Libes K (2021) “Glory in a Host of Entomological Spoils”: beetle-wing embroidery and the exhibition of India in Anglo-American Dress, 1780–1903. Dress 47:79–94. https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1833537
Lloyd VJ, Nadeau NJ (2021) The evolution of structural colour in butterflies. Curr Opin Genet Dev 69:28–34. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.gde.2021.01.004
Lopez de Zarate F (1648) Poema heroico de la invencion de la Cruz. Published by Francisco García, Madrid
MacLaury RE (1997) Color and cognition in Mesoamerica: constructing categories as vantages. University of Texas Press, Austin
McElroy WA (1955) Psi testing in Arnhem Land. Oceania 26:118–126. https://doi.org/10.1002/j.1834-4461.1955.tb00668.x
McGill F (ed) (2005) The Kingdom of Siam: the art of Central Thailand, 1350–1800. Snoeck Publishers
McKenzie DR, Yin Y, Mcfall-Ngai MJ (1995) Silvery fish skin as an example of a chaotic reflector. Proc R Soc London Ser A Math Phys Sci 451:579–584. https://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.1995.0144
McMahon BC (2017) Iridescence, vision, and belief in the early modern Hispanic World. University of Southern California
Meert K, Pandelaere M, Patrick VM (2014) Taking a shine to it: how the preference for glossy stems from an innate need for water. J Consum Psychol 24:195–206. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jcps.2013.12.005
Merrifield MP (1849) Original treatises on the arts of painting. Published by John Murray: London
Meyers MA, Chen PY, Lin AYM, Seki Y (2008) Biological materials: structure and mechanical properties. Prog Mater Sci 53:1–206. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pmatsci.2007.05.002
Michielsen K, Stavenga DG (2008) Gyroid cuticular structures in butterfly wing scales: biological photonic crystals. J R Soc Interface 5:85–94. https://doi.org/10.1098/rsif.2007.1065
Milburn O (2020) Featherwork in early and Medieval China. J Am Orient Soc 140:549–564. https://doi.org/10.7817/jameroriesoci.140.3.0549
Molina GI (1809) The geographical, natural, and civil history of Chili. Cambridge University Press
Morris B (1962) Victorian Embroidery: an authoritative guide. Dover, Mineola, New York, Reprint 2003
Neville AC (1977) Metallic gold and silver colours in some insect cuticles. J Insect Physiol 23:1267–1274. https://doi.org/10.1016/0022-1910(77)90069-5
Noh H, Liew SF, Saranathan V, Mochrie SGJ, Prum RO, Dufresne ER, Cao H (2010) How noniridescent colors are generated by quasi-ordered structures of bird feathers. Adv Mater 22:2871–2880. https://doi.org/10.1002/adma.200903699
Nüsslein-Volhard C, Singh AP (2017) How fish color their skin: a paradigm for development and evolution of adult patterns. BioEssays 39:1600231. https://doi.org/10.1002/bies.201600231
Ogden J (1982) Jewellery of the ancient world. Trefoil Books, London
Ohri VC (2001) The technique of Pahari painting: an inquiry into aspects of materials, methods and history. Indian Institute of Advanced Study, Shimla
Opper M-J, Opper H (1996) Imitation pearls in France. BEADS J Soc Bead Res 8:23–34
Owen S (2016) The poetry of Du Fu. De Gruyter, Boston/Berlin
Ozaki R, Kikumoto K, Takagaki M, Kadowaki K, Odawara K (2021) Structural colors of pearls. Sci Rep 11:15224. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-021-94737-w
Park H-S (2007) Baekje’s relationship with Japan in the 6th century. Int J Korean Hist 11:97–115
Parker AR, Welch VL, Driver D, Martini N (2003) Structural colour: opal analogue discovered in a weevil. Nature 426:786–787
Pastoureau M (2022) Blanc. Histoire d’une couleur. Seuil: Paris
Pastoureau M (2019) Jaune. Histoire d’une couleur. Seuil: Paris
Pastoureau M (2016) Rouge. Histoire d’une couleur. Seuil: Paris
Pastoureau M (2013) Vert. Histoire d’une couleur. Seuil: Paris
Pastoureau M (2008) Noir. Histoire d’une couleur. Seuil: Paris
Pastoureau M (2000) Bleu. Histoire d’une couleur. Seuil: Paris
Pfund AH (1917) The colors of mother-of-pearl. J Franklin Inst 183:453–464. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0016-0032(17)91045-2
Poladian L, Wickham S, Lee K, Large MCJ (2009) Iridescence from photonic crystals and its suppression in butterfly scales. J R Soc Interface 6:S233–S242. https://doi.org/10.1098/rsif.2008.0353.focus
Prakash A, Finet C, Banerjee T, Das, Saranathan V, Monteiro A (2022) Antennapedia and optix regulate metallic silver wing scale development and cell shape in Bicyclus anynana butterflies. Cell Rep 40:111052
Rabelais F (1534) La vie inestimable du grand Gargantua, père de Pantagruel. Lyon, France
Radcliffe-Brown AR (1926) The rainbow-serpent myth of Australia. J R Anthropol Inst G B Irel 56:19–25. https://doi.org/10.2307/2843596
Rajyaguru PK, Pegram KV, Kingston ACN, Rutowski RL (2013) Male wing color properties predict the size of nuptial gifts given during mating in the Pipevine Swallowtail butterfly (Battus philenor). Naturwissenschaften 100:507–513. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00114-013-1046-1
Rayleigh L (1923) Studies of iridescent colour and the structure producing it—II. Mother-of-pearl. Proc R Soc Lond Ser A 102:674–677. https://doi.org/10.1098/rspb.1923.0016
Ren A, Day CR, Hanly JJ, Counterman BA, Morehouse NI, Martin A (2020) Convergent evolution of broadband reflectors underlies metallic coloration in butterflies. Front Ecol Evol 8:206. https://doi.org/10.3389/fevo.2020.00206
Revolon S (2018) Iridescence as affordance: on artefacts and light interference in the renewal of life among the Owa (Eastern Solomon Islands). Oceania 88:31–40. https://doi.org/10.1002/ocea.5179
Revolon S (2012) L’éclat des ombres. Tech Cult 58:252–263
Rivers VZ (2014) The torans of Gujarat and Rajasthan: meanings and origins. Marg, A Magazine of the Arts June:78–80
Rivers VZ (1999) The shining cloth: dress and adornment that glitters. Thames & Hudson Ltd, London
Robertson KA, Monteiro A (2005) Female Bicyclus anynana butterflies choose males on the basis of their dorsal UV-reflective eyespot pupils. Proc R Soc B Biol Sci 272:1541–1546. https://doi.org/10.1098/rspb.2005.3142
Robertson WG (1931) Time was: the reminiscences of W. Graham Robertson. Hamish Hamilton
Roderich P (2012) Chinese bird imports from maritime Southeast Asia, c. 1000-1500. Archipel 84:197–245
Russo A (2011) Uncatchable colors. In: Tatti VI, the HUC for IRS (ed) Colors between two worlds: the Florentine codex of Bernardino de Sahagun. Kunsthistorisches Institut in Florenz, Max-Planck-Institut, Florence, pp. 389–410
Rutowski RL, Macedonia JM, Kemp DJ, Taylor-Taft L (2007) Diversity in structural ultraviolet coloration among female sulphur butterflies (Coliadinae, Pieridae). Arthropod Struct Dev 36:280–290. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.asd.2006.11.005
Sabetay S, Hunsdiecker H (1961) Nacreous bases in cosmetics. Soaps Perfum Cosmet. January:57–60
Saint-Aubin CG (1770) L’art du brodeur. Published by L.-F. Delatour: Paris
Saranathan V, Finet C (2021) Cellular and developmental basis of avian structural coloration. Curr Opin Genet Dev 69:56–64. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.gde.2021.02.004
Sauzay A (1884) La verrerie depuis les temps les plus reculés jusqu’à nos jours. Hachette, Paris
Schenk F, Parker A (2011) Iridescent color: from nature to the painter’s palette. Leonardo 44:108–115. https://doi.org/10.1162/LEON_a_00114
Schenk F, Stavenga DG (2020) The lesser purple emperor butterfly, Apatura ilia: from mimesis to biomimetics. Faraday Discuss 223:145–160. https://doi.org/10.1039/d0fd00036a
Schenk F, Wilts BD, Stavenga DG (2013) The Japanese jewel beetle: a painter’s challenge. Bioinspir Biomim 8:045002. https://doi.org/10.1088/1748-3182/8/4/045002
Seago AE, Brady P, Vigneron JP, Schultz TD (2009) Gold bugs and beyond: a review of iridescence and structural colour mechanisms in beetles (Coleoptera). J R Soc Interface 6:S165–184. https://doi.org/10.1098/rsif.2008.0354.focus
Séfèriadès ML (2010) Spondylus and long-distance trade in prehistoric Europe. In: Anthony DW, Chi J (Eds.) The lost world of Old Europe. The Danube Valley, 5000–3500 BC. Princeton University Press, New York, Princeton, Oxford, pp. 179–186
Seuß B, Nützel A, Mapes RH, Yancey TE (2009) Facies and fauna of the Pennsylvanian Buckhorn Asphalt Quarry deposit: a review and new data on an important Palaeozoic fossil Lagerstätte with aragonite preservation. Facies 55:609–645. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10347-009-0181-9
Shakespeare W (1600) The Merchant of Venice. Published by Thomas Heyes: London
Sharma V, Crne M, Park JO, Srinivasarao M (2009) Structural origin of circularly polarized iridescence in jeweled beetles. Science 325:449–451. https://doi.org/10.1126/science.1172051
Shawkey MD, D’Alba L (2017) Interactions between colour-producing mechanisms and their effects on the integumentary colour palette. Philos Trans R Soc B Biol Sci 372:20160536. https://doi.org/10.1098/rstb.2016.0536
Siegal N (2019) Pierre soulages still paints it black. New York Times. p. C5
Snow MR, Pring A, Self P, Losic D, Shapter J (2004) The origin of the color of pearls in iridescence from nano-composite structures of the nacre. Am Mineral 89:1353–1358. https://doi.org/10.2138/am-2004-1001
Song F, Soh AK, Bai YL (2003) Structural and mechanical properties of the organic matrix layers of nacre. Biomaterials 24:3623–3631. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0142-9612(03)00215-1
Stavenga DG (2021) The wing scales of the mother-of-pearl butterfly, Protogoniomorpha parhassus, are thin film reflectors causing strong iridescence and polarization. J Exp Biol 224:jeb.242983. https://doi.org/10.1242/jeb.242983
Stavenga DG, Tinbergen J, Leertouwer HL, Wilts BD (2011) Kingfisher feathers—colouration by pigments, spongy nanostructures and thin films. J Exp Biol 214:3960–3967. https://doi.org/10.1242/jeb.062620
Stirling MW (1938) Historical and ethnographical material on the Jivaro Indians. Washington, D.C. Smithson Bur Ethnol 117:100–103
Strathern A, Strathern S (1971) Self-decoration in Mount Hagen. Backworth: London
Sun J, Bhushan B (2012) Hierarchical structure and mechanical properties of nacre: a review. RSC Adv. https://doi.org/10.1039/c2ra20218b
Surrallés A (2016) On contrastive perception and ineffability: assessing sensory experience without colour terms in an Amazonian society. J R Anthropol Inst 22:962–979. https://doi.org/10.1111/1467-9655.12499
Terlep ML, Smiley FE, Haas R (2023) Iridescent beetle adornments suggest incipient status competition among the earliest horticulturalists in bears ears national monument. Am Antiq 88:2–19
Tezozomoc HA (1994) Cronica Mexicana. Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, Mexico
Thayer R, Allen F, Patel NH (2020) Structural color in Junonia butterflies evolves by tuning scale lamina thickness. Elife 9:e52187
Toomey JJ (2013) Thai mother-of-pearl inlay. Passage, Mag. Singapore Friends Museums
Umbers KDL (2013) On the perception, production and function of blue colouration in animals. J Zool 289:229–242. https://doi.org/10.1111/jzo.12001
Van Beek S, Tettoni L (1989) The arts of Thailand. Thames & Hudson Ltd, New York
Vukusic P, Sambles JR, Lawrence CR (2000) Colour mixing in wing scales of a butterfly. Nature 404:457. https://doi.org/10.1038/35006561
Welch V, Lousse V, Deparis O, Parker A, Vigneron JP (2007) Orange reflection from a three-dimensional photonic crystal in the scales of the weevil Pachyrrhynchus congestus pavonius (Curculionidae). Phys Rev E -Stat Nonlinear Soft Matter Phys 75:041919. https://doi.org/10.1103/PhysRevE.75.041919
Wenk K (2000) Notes on the history of the art of mother-of-pearl in Thailand with particular reference to the doors on the Ubosot of Wat Phra Chetuphon. J Siam Soc 88:1–14
Wilts BD, Matsushita A, Arikawa K, Stavenga DG (2015) Spectrally tuned structural and pigmentary coloration of birdwing butterfly wing scales. J R Soc Interface 12:20150717. https://doi.org/10.1098/rsif.2015.0717
Wilts BD, Michielsen K, De Raedt H, Stavenga DG (2012a) Iridescence and spectral filtering of the gyroid-type photonic crystals in Parides sesostris wing scales. Interface Focus 2:681–687. https://doi.org/10.1098/rsfs.2011.0082
Wilts BD, Michielsen K, Kuipers J, De Raedt H, Stavenga DG (2012b) Brilliant camouflage: photonic crystals in the diamond weevil, Entimus imperialis. Proc R Soc B Biol Sci 279:2524–2530. https://doi.org/10.1098/rspb.2011.2651
Woodthorpe RG (1882) Notes on the wild tribes inhabiting the so-called Naga Hills, on our North-East frontier of India. Part I J Anthropol Inst G B Irel 11:56–73
Ximenez F (1615) Quatro libros de la naturaleza. Published by Diego Lopez Daualos: Mexico
Yidi Daccarett E, David Daccarett K, Lizcano Angarita M (2005) El arte palestino de tallar el nacar. Colombia Panamericana Formas e Impresos, Barranquilla
Zhu RUI, Meyers-Levy J (2009) The influence of self-view on context effects: how display fixtures can affect product evaluations. J Mark Res 46:37–45. https://doi.org/10.1509/jmkr.46.1.37
Zhu Z, Tan P, Yang J, Ge H, Liu L (2019) Mass spectrometric identification of adhesive utilized in a Tian-tsui Tiara of the mid-Qing Dynasty (1776–1839 CE) in the Collection of the Tang Clan Folk Museum. Stud Conserv 64:187–192. https://doi.org/10.1080/00393630.2018.1501961
